Capitol Reef NP: The Open Park

The interesting thing about Capitol Reef National Park is that you drive right through it on State Road 24 from Hanksville to Torrey. You’ll want to stop though and even turn off by the visitors center to actually experience the park. 

Roadside Sights

Behunin Cabin 

This primitive little cabin, built in 1882 by Elijah Behunin, has been preserved on the side of the road. It’s a quick and easy pull over to see this one room homestead occupied for only one year by his family before moving to higher, less rugged and less flood-prone ground. Looking at the family picture from 1896, I’m guessing there were probably 6 or 7 of them living in the tiny space, prior to becoming a family of 15. 

Park Name Origination

Continuing west on 24, you’ll enter the Waterpocket Fold and pass by Capital Dome. These two elements of the area is where the Capital Reef NP name came from. Early on, the Waterpocket Fold seemed to be a travel barrier like an ocean reef and the domed rock formation was reminiscent of the US Capitol building. Capitol Reef National Monument was the 1st designation by President Roosevelt in 1937. Later, in 1971, President Nixon signed legislation establishing Capitol Reef National Park. 

Fruita Schoolhouse

Follow State Road 24 towards Torrey. You’ll pass the Hickman Bridge Trailhead (which we hiked the next morning after our 1st nite staying at Capitol Reef Resort) and Petroglyph Panel. I think this would be an interesting stop too, but we continued to the roadside Fruita Schoolhouse to explore more of the early settlers’ history. 

This one classroom school, with wood burning stove surrounded by antique student desks, was built in 1896 and closed in 1941. Next to the information board here, you can listen to a recorded interview of one of the teachers, Janice Torgerson. What a treasure that someone captured the memories of her time (circa 1934) at the schoolhouse in her own spoken words. 

Interestingly, the 1st teacher was Nettie Behunin when she was only 12 years old. 

Capitol Reef NP Visitors Center

Stopping at the Capitol Reef NP VC, notice the rock formation behind it, aptly named The Castle.  This road at the visitors center is the Scenic Drive that will carry you through the historic heart of the park. 

Fruita Historic District

Gifford House

The Fruita Historic District is where you will find Gifford House and the pies! There is also a nearby blacksmith shop, possibly Dewey Gifford’s. He, like Janice Torgerson, has a recorded story of his time farming and ranching in Fruita from 1928-1969. He said, ‘For me, Fruita was paradise. I will never forget it.’ The Gifford’s moved away in 1969, but their former home, now operated by Capitol Reef National History Association, is open to the public selling homemade fruit pies and other handmade items. You’ll find reproductions of utensils and household items used by the early Mormon pioneers. 

Orchards And Wildlife

The Fruita Historic District is a lush green valley in the middle of this rough rocky desert terrain of Capitol Reef National Park. I can see why Mr. Dewey called it paradise. Along Scenic Drive, there are still lots of orchards such as the Mulford and Chestnut Orchards. You can even pick the fruit in these orchards as some people were. 

We saw deer in an orchard by the amphitheater and they didn’t seem to be afraid of us. It is also near the campsites, so the wildlife are no doubt accustomed to people frequenting their habitat. 

Capitol Gorge Road

Follow Scenic Drive, past the fee station, to the end of paved road and you will come to a pavilion and restrooms.  At this point, you can continue driving on the unpaved Capitol Gorge Road. You can see the rock formation, Golden Throne, from this road. There is a Golden Throne Trail, at the end of this unpaved road, to see it and Capitol Gorge, but it’s strenuous 2 mile hike. The Capitol Gorge Trail. from same parking lot, is only a 1 mile hike with a short climb to waterpockets. Return by same route back to Scenic Drive taking in some other hikes if you like or go back to SR 24 continuing towards Torrey. 

Panorama Point

For stargazing or a beautiful view, stop by Panorama Point if you are headed west past the visitors center.  There really are great views in all directions. From here you can head to Sunset Trail and Goosenecks Overlook. 

Sunset Point

There is an unpaved road from Panorama Point that will take you to Sunset Point Trailhead. This is a short hike out to another panoramic overlook that is a beautiful view even before sunset.  

Goosenecks Overlook

800 feet below the Gooseneck Overlook, you will see several gooseneck curves as the Sulphur Creek has eroded through the canyon. Sulphur Creek flows into the Colorado River.  The fenced in platform is on the edge here, and it was very windy when we were up there. Not the best combination if heights bother you. 

Hickman Bridge

Since we were at Capitol Reef in July and Hickman Bridge is not in the lush shady part, we tackled this almost 2 mile moderate hike in the morning. Hickman Bridge is a 125 foot arch really and it’s nicely shaded up under it and on the backside.  Aside from the incredible prize at the end, it’s an enjoyable hike. Get a Trail Guide at the start of the trail for 17 points of interest to look for along the trail. It’s very informative as you hike through the ancient lava rock, prickly pears (one got me!) and over eroded sandstone forming natural bridges. 

Cathedral Valley

Temple of the Sun

In case you are coming from Torrey or before you get to Capitol Reef NP from Hanksville, Temple of the Sun would be a cool side trip. I didn’t realize at the time that we could have taken a rough unpaved road (4×4 recommended) from Caineville, east of the park, to Cathedral Valley. The road is Caineville Wash Road and is 32 miles roundtrip to the temple rocks and back. This is where the iconic Temple of the Sun and smaller Temple of the Moon are located. There is also sparkly Glass Mountain here that sounds small and maybe not mountainous, but definitely worth seeing. 

There are also other overlooks etc in this remote area of the park. With all of the roads unpaved up here, more research would be required before I explore this outlying end of the park. 

We had a great time exploring Capitol Reef National Park with Ted & Cathy and tons of fun staying at Capitol Reef Resort with them too.

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